TOPICS

• Acne
• Aging and Your Skin
• Vitamin C Skin Care
• Sunshine on Your Skin

ACNE
Acne is a common skin disorder that is characterized by clogged pores and pimples. It definitely is a disease of patience. People often associate it with teenagers. And it’s true that four out of five people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience acne. But it can affect people of all ages. In fact it’s estimated that one in five adults between the ages of 24 and 44 experiences acne, and that nearly half of all adult women experience mild to moderate acne. Acne is rarely serious, but it often causes emotional distress and can lead to scarring of the skin. With the right treatment, you can often keep acne under control. Measures can also be taken to reduce scars left by acne such as microdermabrassion.

The Cause of Acne:
Acne occurs when the hair follicle's of your skin become plugged with oil and dead skin cells. Each follicle is connected to sebaceous glands that secrete an oily substance known as sebum to lubricate your skin and hair. When your body produces an excess amount of sebum and dead skin cells in a pore, the two can become trapped and solidify as a soft, white plug.This plug may block the pore, causing the follicle wall to bulge and produce a whitehead. If the pore stays open and traps dirt, the top surface of the plug may darken, causing a blackhead.

Four factors contribute to the formation of acne.

• Over production of oil (sebum).
• Irregular shedding of dead skin cells.
• Buildup of bacteria.
• Hormonal response.
  

It’s not known what causes the increased production of sebum that leads to acne, but a number of factors including hormones, bacteria, certain medications, heredity and stress are thought to play a role.

Other factors include:

• Exposing your skin to greasy or oily substances.
• Using sports equipment or wearing clothing that rubs against your skin.
• Being Caucasian. People of all races develop acne, but it’s more common among Caucasions.
• Vigorous washing and scrubbing will actually irritate the skin and make acne worse.

Contrary to what many people think, foods have little affect on acne. Neither chocolate nor greasy foods like french fries are likely to cause or aggravate acne. However dermatologist's have differing opinions on the importance of your diet in the management of acne. One thing for certain; a strict diet by itself will not clear your skin. On the other hand, if certain foods seem to make your acne worse, then try to avoid them. But be careful about jumping to conclusions, acne may get better or worse on its own.

Caring of Acne and Acne Prone Skin:
Control of acne is an ongoing process and one of patience. All acne treatments work by preventing new acne. Existing blemishes must heal on their own but there are some products which seem to speed up this process by getting rid of inflammation and helping the swelling such as Neova’s, "Intensive Blemish Treatment" or "Acne Complex Gel" from Procyte. Also Dermalogica has a "Medicated Clearing Gel". (see Products & Info for these and more). These products seem to work very well but the best treatment is to try and prevent or control further breakouts.

• Wash problem areas with a gentle cleanser. Most people have tried over-the-counter products without much resolve before they ever come to us. Remember over washing and scrubbing also can irritate skin and make acne worse.

• Avoid irritants. You may want to avoid oily or greasy cosmetics, sunscreens, hair styling products or acne concealer's. Use products labeled water-based or noncomedogenic. If the sun worsens your acne, protect yourself from sunlight which is a good idea in general. Sunlight also causes wrinkles and fine lines as well as increases the chances of skin cancer. It is suggested that you use a daily sunblock rated at SPF 15 or higher. Shaving is another irritant which is hard to avoid. There are shaving creams and/or facial washes such as Neova’s, "After Shave Therapy", "Purifying Facial Cleanser", and several other’s.

• Watch what touches your face. Keep your hair clean and off your face. Also avoid resting your hands or objects on your face. Tight clothing or hats can also pose a problem, especially if you’ll be sweating. Sweat, dirt, and oils can contribute to acne.

Moderate to Severe Acne may require that oral antibiotics, or hormone therapy be added to the ongoing facial cleansing. Especially if the acne is on the back or chest this may be required. Antibiotics reduce the bacteria in the follicle and may also decrease the skin redness. Women who are taking birth control pills may notice a significant improvement in their acne and these pills are sometimes prescribe specifically for the treatment of acne.

Cystic Acne is best treated by a dermatologist who may use cortisone injections, Accutaine, deep chemical peels, dermabrassion or several other treatments which are best done and monitored by a specialist.

Proper Care. No matter what special treatments you may use remember that you must continue proper skin care until the tendency to have acne has passed. There is no instant or permanent cure for acne, but it is controllable, and proper treatment may prevent scarring.

I suggest that you visit the Products and Info section or call 1-801-455-1262 where you will find Skin Care products that are very effective and medically proven to benefit and maintain your skins health and natural beauty.
Facial Solar Spots

AGING AND YOUR SKIN

We begin to age the moment we are born, and throughout our lives the effects of aging are evident in our bodies. Beginning in our 20’s, the effects of aging begin to be visible in the skin. Keeping your skin beautiful and healthy begins first and foremost with sun protection. Most people don’t realize that 80-90% of the damage to your skin occurs by the time you are 18 years old. Also, most people don’t know that 90% of the changes in our skin that we associate with aging is actually due to sun exposure and could be avoided with the daily use of a sunscreen. A small price to pay to help prevent cancer, scarring, spots, and permanent thinning effects. And while we are on the subject; Yes, the evidence is in that tanning beds are just as harmful to your skin. Genetically programmed chronologic aging causes biochemical changes in collagen and elastin, the connective tissues that give skin its firmness and elasticity. The genetic program for each of us is different, so the loss of skin firmness and elasticity occurs at different rates and different times in one individual as compared with another.

As skin becomes less elastic, it also becomes drier. Underlying fat padding begins to disappear. With the loss of underlying support by fat padding and connective tissues, the skin begins to sag. It appears less supple, and wrinkles form. The skin may be itchy with increased dryness and the skin may heal slower. The process of photoaging may be taking place simultaneously with genetically programmed aging. Photoaging is the effect of chronic and excessive sun exposure on the skin. In fact, photoaging may be responsible for the majority of age-associated changes in the skins appearance: mottled pigmentation, surface roughness, fine lines and wrinkles that disappear when stretched, "age" or "liver" spots (lentigines) on the hands, and dilated blood vessels. Sun exposure is a major risk factor for skin cancers. Cigarette smoking also contributes to aging effects by the biochemical changes it brings about to skin tissues.

Prevention of Photoaging:
While slowing down the effects of chronologic aging may seem impossible, more than anything else you can do something to inhibit the skin damage caused by sun exposure, i.e. wrinkling, blotchy pigmentation, thinning of the skin, broken blood vessels (telangiectasis), dryness, texture changes, uneven color and some sun related skin diseases that makes skin look older. Ultraviolet Radiation is divided into 3 different bands: UVA, UVB, UVC. Almost all of UVC is filtered out by our atmosphere so that none actually reaches the earth’s surface, UVA and UVB both reach the surface in significant amounts. UVB is stronger ("the burning ray") and has a greater ability to cause skin damage and is responsible for most sunburns and most skin cancers. UVA ("the aging ray") is responsible for premature aging signs, penetrating deep into the skin where it destroys collagen and elastin.

The sun’s rays are strongest between the hours of 10 am and 2 pm, so be sure that you wear adequate sun screen at all times. Even on cloudy days it is possible to get burned because the clouds do not filter out all of the ultraviolet rays. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen to block UVA/UVB rays with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15 or higher. Apply this 20-60 minutes before going into the sun and even if it is water-proof, re-apply it after getting out of the water. Be sure to wear a hat with a wide brim and sun glasses. Not just to protect the eyes but also to prevent squinting which causes wrinkles.Beware of medication that causes photo-sensitivity.

"Age" or "Liver" Spots:
"Liver" spots have nothing to do with the liver, and they are not an indication of liver disease. They are more correctly called "age spots" and "photoaging spots". In medical terms they are called lentigines or lentigos. Their typical appearance is light to dark brown (nearly black) flat patches on the hands, face, legs, or feet. The edges of the spots are rounded, giving them a resemblance to a large freckle. One may appear by itself, or several may cluster together. The cause of these spots are:

• an inherited tendency to form them, and
• chronic sun exposure.

Age spots are not cancerous or precancerous. However, pigmented lesions that may be similar in appearance, but have uneven rather than rounded edges, could be melanoma and should be evaluated by a doctor. Treatment is done with bleaching agents to even out the pigmentation or Cryotherapy (liquid nitrogen).

Actinic Keratosis, thick, warty, rough, reddish growths on sun-exposed areas of the skin. They may be a precursor to squamous cell carcinoma. Seborrheic Keratosis, brown or black raised spots, or wart-like growths that appear to be stuck to the skins surface. They are not cancerous or precancerous, and are easily removed. Seborrheic Warts, very common, look as if they are "stuck on" to the skin. Initially they are skin toned but gradually become darker. They are often multiple but tend to be isolated. Noncancerous.
Cherry Angioma’s, "a red mole", harmless, small, bright red domes created by dilated blood vessels, usually related to sun damage. Bruising, often a result of skin having lost its fat padding and becoming more susceptible to injury. Some drugs may cause bleeding under the skin.

Skin Cancer:

Basal Cell, These take on several different appearances. Usually pearly and shiny, Often with an ulcer in the center. Pink or red with telangiectasis, round, oval, firm but not hard. Requires surgical removal.

Squamous Cell, also has many different appearances. Indurated papule, plaque, or nodule. Often eroded, crusted, and ulcerated. Hard, may be fixed to underlying structure. Must be surgically removed.

Melanoma, irregular border, variations in hue from tan to black. Usually isolated on exposed areas, forehead, nose, cheeks, neck, forearms and hands. Requires immediate deep and wide surgical resection.

Dryness:
Aging and photoaging reduce the capacity of the skin to moisturize itself, so the skin becomes dry. Dry skin is one of the major causes of itchiness in skin. Elderly skin is sometimes more sensitive to clothing fabrics (especially wool), soaps and detergents, and other items encountered in everyday living. Identification of the sensitizing agents and limiting exposure to them may reduce the itchiness. Allergies to a host of indoor and outdoor agents may cause itching. Some medications cause itchiness as a side effect.

Moisturizers are a very important part of skin care since keeping the skin moist is one of the key factors in healthy skin. Most moisturizers available are composed of some formulation of oil and water, with added ingredients that may or may not help to combat specific skin problems. However, moisturizers are only capable of keeping moisture from escaping out of the skin, not putting moisture back into the skin. Moisturized skin appears smoother and younger by plumping up cells and temporarily diminishing wrinkles. It also helps with makeup application. If you want more permanent results you will want to moisturize your skin with a formula containing concentrations of anti-aging ingredients, such as Copper Peptides, Vitamin-C (L-ascorbic acid 10% in a stable formula) or Alpha hydroxy acids.

Moisturizing creams contain more oil than water and, as a result, are also more effective. These also may feel a little greasy but less so than ointments or petrolatum. Lotions are the most popular but because they contain more water than oil, they are not as effective. Humectants are moisturizers that do not contain oil (oil Free). These products contain glycerin, propylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. Humectants are also extremely effective, some such as alpha hydroxy acids actually improve the skins ability to retain moisture. Apply moisturizers to damp skin. This helps trap moisture in the skin. Deodourant/Antibacterial soaps can be drying to the skin and should be avoided if you already have dry skin. Soaps that can be tried are the super-fatted soaps which contain coconut or mineral oil, lanolin, or cold cream.

Aging skin can be treated and should be treated. It is best to start when you are younger to try and prevent damage to the skin but it is never to late. Remember that the sun causes the majority of the damage to our skin and this is easily dealt with by the measures mentioned above. I invite you to visit the Products & Info section to see the many products we have with years of scientific studies to show the benefits in healing the wounds of time. Products of the highest quality available only through a practitioner licensed to practice and prescribe medications. Products to protect, moisturize, and repair tissue. We also have bleaching products to even out the pigmentation blotches caused from years of solar damage. We hope that we may be of help to you for all your skin care needs.

VITAMIN C SKIN CARE

Many companies wanting to offer a vitamin C product have used derivatives of vitamin C, such as ascorbyl palmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. These derivatives are easier to produce and stabilise, but they are not L-ascorbic acid, which is the only form of vitamin C the body can use. Topical vitamin C must be in the form of L-ascorbic acid to be useful to the body and skin.

L-ascorbic acid is unstable and tends to break down rapidly, reasons why it is so difficult to produce for cosmetic and preventative skin care products. Once it is in the skin, studies show that L-ascorbic acid stimulates collagen synthesis, provides photoprotection, stays in the skin for up to 72 hours, cannot be washed, rubbed, or perspired off, and prevents UV immunosuppression, which is a reaction that occurs in greater than 90% of skin cancer patients. Recent studies indicate that vitamin C derivatives do not perform the same way as topical L-ascorbic acid.

Topical vitamin C protects skin against and helps reduce harm caused by exposure to sunlight. It does this by neutrilizing “free radicals” (reactive oxygen), the highly reactive molecules produced by the interaction of sunlight, cell membranes, and other components of skin tissue. It does not absorb light so it is not a sunscreen and it should not be used in place of daily sunscreen, but rather in conjunction to a sunscreen with an SPF 15 or greater.

Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that has been proven to increase collagen synthesis. Collagen synthesis is essential to maintain healthy skin. Studies show that collagen decreases with aging and that photoaging accelerates the decline in collagen. L-ascorbic acid serves as a signal, relaying a critical message to collagen genes to synthesise collagen.

Keeping your skin beautiful and healthy begins first and foremost with sun protection. Most people don’t realize that 80-90% of the damage to your skin occurs by the time you are 18 years old. Also, most people don’t know that 90% of the changes in our skin that we associate with aging is actually due to sun exposure and could be avoided with the daily use of a sunscreen. A small price to pay to help prevent cancer, scarring, spots, and permanent thinning effects. And while we are on the subject; Yes, the evidence is in that tanning beds are just as harmful to your skin.

Neova has produced a revolutionary formula which contains 10% L-ascorbic acid in a stable, water-free formula. Daily use of Neova-C Protection Cream provides the skin with powerful antioxidant protection, and improves the overall tone and texture of the skin. Helps to eliminate and prevent fine wrinkles and lines. Many of my patients who have tried this refer to it as the “WOW” cream. Even if this cream didn’t have the studies to show it’s benefits it makes your skin feel so nice that I think most people would use it anyway. Neova products can only be provided through a medical provider who is licensed to prescribe. I’m very impressed with these products and I’m happy to be able to provide them for you.

SUNSHINE ON YOUR SKIN

Spring is finally here and it’s the first sunny day after a long cold winter. You walk outside and feel the warm fresh air all around you, close your eyes and lift your face toward the sun, it feels like Heaven. The soothing warmth of the sun on your skin, you feel the glow of a tan coming on, a burst of energy throughout your body, the wrinkles, age spots, and worries of skin cancer begin.

What a way to end a beautiful paragraph, but judging by the numbers of people soaking up the rays at the beach, around the pools, and using tanning beds we must still associate a tan with health and fitness. Most of us by now have heard the dangers of getting too much sun, i.e., sunburn, premature wrinkles and fine lines, blotchy pigmentation, thinning of the skin, broken blood vessels (telangiectasis), dryness, texture changes, uneven colour, some sun related skin diseases that makes skin look older, and an increase risk of skin cancer. But many nonetheless, give too little thought to the fact that a tan is actually your body’s attempt to protect itself from the sun’s damaging rays.

Keeping your skin beautiful and healthy begins first and foremost with sun protection. Most people don’t realise that 80-90% of the damage to your skin occurs by the time you are 18 years old. Also, most people don’t know that 90% of the changes in our skin that we associate with aging is actually due to sun exposure and could be avoided with the daily use of a sunscreen. A small price to pay to help prevent cancer, scarring, spots, and permanent thinning effects. And while we are on the subject; Yes, the evidence is in that tanning beds are just as harmful to your skin. Studies suggest that those exposed to occasional periods of intense sunlight or UV rays, such as indoor workers who spend vacations lying on a beach, are at greater risk of melanoma compared with farmers, roofer’s, and others who regularly spend long hours in the sun.

You’ve got a lot of skin, about 20 square feet of it. It’s the largest organ of our body and it takes a lot of abuse hanging out there in the heat and cold, wind and sun. Your skin is your body’s first line of defence against the environment around you. It helps protect you from injury, infection and harmful substances. It also helps regulate your body temperature and plays a major role in your sense of touch. Not to mention keeping you attractive.

Nine hundred thousand Americans are diagnosed with skin cancer each year, making it the most common form of cancer. Exposure to the sun’s rays is responsible for almost all cases of basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma and is a major underlying cause of malignant melanoma. Malignant melanoma is the most serious and is responsible for approximately 50,000 new cases and 7,500 deaths each year. Over the past two decades, the incidence of melanoma in the white population has doubled. Almost half of all Americans who reach age 65 will develop at least one skin cancer. You’re at increased risk if you’ve had severe or blistering burns from sunlight, tanning beds or lamps, x-rays or radiation. You’re also at increased risk if you live in the sun belt or at higher elevations or your immune system is suppressed for any reason.

Your skin has three layers, each with unique functions:

• The Epidermis- your skins outer layer, the epidermis is as thin as a pencil line. It provides a protective layer of skin cells that you continually shed. The very outer surface is made up of dead skin cells. Squamous cells lie just below the outer surface. Basal cells, which produce new skin cells are are at the bottom of the epidermis. The epidermis also contains cells (melanocyte's) that produce the pigment melanin. The amount of melanin in your skin determines your skin colour.
• The Dermis- lies just below the epidermis, makes up about 90% of the thickness of your skin. It contains a dense meshwork of collagen, elastin fibers and two types of protein. This meshwork supports lymph and blood vessels, nerves, muscle cells, sweat and sebaceous glands and hair follicle's. Collagen and elastin fibers give your skin its strength and elasticity. Sebaceous glands produce an oily substance called sebum, which helps keep your skin smooth and moist.
• Subcutaneous Tissue- lies under the dermis composed primarily of fat. This skin layer insulates and protects your inner organs and helps keep your skin resilient.

New skin cells continually push older cells toward your skins surface. As the new cells move upward, they become flat and scaly squamous cells. When cells reach the surface, they’re composed primarily of a lifeless protein called keratin which is the same substance that makes up your hair and nails. These cells remain briefly on your skins surface causing it to look dull, then flake off. It takes about a month for a newly formed skin cell to reach the surface and slough off. Products containing Alpha hydroxy acids such as Neova’s Smoothing Gel as well as several of their washes, help to shed these dead surface cells, a process called exfoliation helping to smooth fine lines and wrinkles and to make skin look and feel healthier.

While slowing down the effects of chronologic aging may seem impossible, more than anything else you can do something to inhibit the skin damage caused by sun exposure. Ultraviolet Radiation is divided into 3 different bands: UVA, UVB, UVC. Almost all of UVC is filtered out by our atmosphere so that none actually reaches the earth’s surface, UVA and UVB both reach the surface in significant amounts. UVB is stronger (“the burning ray”) and has a greater ability to cause skin damage and is responsible for most sunburns and most skin cancers. UVA (“the aging ray”) is responsible for premature aging signs, penetrating deep into the skin where it destroys collagen and elastin (in the dermis layer). But there are precautions you can take at any age to prevent damage to your skin. The sun’s rays are strongest between the hours of 10 am and 2 pm, so be sure that you wear adequate sun screen at all times. Even on cloudy days it is possible to get burned because the clouds do not filter out all of the ultraviolet rays. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen to block UVA/UVB rays with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15 or higher, such as Z-Silk with an SPF of 30 or Ti-Silk Sheer has an SPF of 45 both are from ProCyte and they are safe for children 6 months of age or older. Apply this 20-60 minutes before going into the sun and even if the sunscreen you choose is water-proof, re-apply it after getting out of the water. Be sure to wear a hat with a wide brim and sun glasses. Not just to protect the eyes but also to prevent squinting which causes wrinkles. Beware of medication that causes photo-sensitivity such as tetracyclines, doxycyclines, and the quinolone family of antibiotics, also skin meds like Retin-A.

Proper skin care should include topical skin treatments with Copper Peptides and/or C-Protection Cream from Neova, daily skin blocks and cleanser's designed for your skin type. With a daily routine you can lessen or even reverse some skin damage with these products. The data supporting the improved wound healing outcomes as well as the dramatic improvements in fine lines and wrinkles are specific to studies using GHK:CU copper found only in Neova products. If looking tan is important to you try our self tanner called Ti-Tan, from Procyte. This product works without dying your skin orange and without the harmful solar rays. To learn more about these skin care programs go to our web site at, www.HydrodermRx.com.